Nick Kucharew hiking in Norway

A Little Off Balance but Not Out of Step: Nick's Hiking in Norway

Nick Kucharew is an ANAC board member. He elected to have complete surgical removal of his tumour in 2013. Although he still experiences minor balance issues, Nick is grateful for the support he received from ANAC through his diagnosis and treatment.

Nick Kucharew
Nick Kucharew

Over three years ago I had acoustic neuroma surgery to remove a moderately large tumour. The surgery was very successful with complete removal of the growth and only some minor issues afterwards. Aside from hearing difficulties that I continue to struggle with, I also have issues with my balance. Sometimes my balance seems normal, while other times I wonder why I just don't go lie down!

I keep persevering with my balance issues although it is somewhat scary at times. I bump into walls, miss steps, stumble, and fall the odd time, but I do keep on going. A year or so ago, I was up on the extension ladder and my wife said I started to sway backwards suddenly. She thought I was going to fall. It scared the dickens out of her, but I managed to grab the rung before anything happened. Scared me a bit too!

So about my trip to Norway...

My wife and I began planning a three-week trip. The first week was going to be spent driving from Oslo to Bergen. The next two weeks would be a cruise along the Norwegian coast - all the way to the top and back. Pretty nice, huh?

As we were figuring out our trip in more detail such as driving routes, accommodations, and sights along the way, we became really interested in going to Pulpit’s Rock (Preikestolen). This is a very famous mountain location in Ryfylke that towers 604 meters over the Lysefjord. People come from all over the world just to see this place. It is a huge flat plateau, just over 2,000 feet above the fjords with water below, and the only way to get there is to hike up the mountain. The view would be amazing. 

The view of Pulpit's Rock. Photo by Nick Kucharew.
The view of Pulpit's Rock. Photo by Nick Kucharew.

So we began planning our own once in a lifetime visit. Early on, my wife asked me if I was okay to do something like this. I conveniently forgot about my balance issues and replied, "Sure, why not?"

As our trip was planned for the off-season when there was the potential for cold and wet weather, we thought a guide was the only way to do this safely. We hired a guide from a company in Norway that specialises in this kind of thing. It wasn’t cheap, but we didn't want to go on our own. We knew this made the most sense since we were not familiar with the area or the terrain.

Getting closer to our departure date, I started to investigate Pulpit’s Rock more and more. I watched videos and tried to get a good feel for what I was getting into. When I saw the pictures and the videos, I started having second thoughts! What the heck was I thinking! It looked dangerous in many parts, and I was really getting concerned about my balance. I only had to make one small misstep, and I'd be in big trouble!

One section near the top appeared very narrow with a steep drop-off all the way down. And I couldn't see in the pictures and videos if there are any supports! My mind was racing as I tried to imagine if I would be able to pass that spot. I was getting more and more worried and contemplated cancelling this dream of a hike. I worried about it for days. I spoke with my wife and eventually she agreed to cancel, even though we would lose the upfront payments.

It would hurt me to disappoint her. This was a dream for her too! So we decided that we would figure out some sort of solution!

After quite a bit of discussion, my wife and I arrived at a plan that we hoped would work. We outfitted ourselves with some hiking gear - backpacks, walking poles and hiking boots. We decided to train for our Norwegian hike by going on treks near our home. This allowed me to practice, practice, practice, and either find out if this dream was a possibility, or not.

With about six weeks before we were due to leave, there really wasn't a lot of time! But better late than never.

The first weekend we noted that the hike did not look terribly difficult. As we continued to walk up hills and over rocks, I discovered my balance was actually BETTER than normal. What gives? Maybe the ground was so uneven and rocky that it was offsetting my imbalance? Who was I to argue?

Over the next six weeks, we hiked and hiked and hiked, as much as we could. We wanted to get used to the rougher terrain while carrying all the weight from our gear in our backpacks. We were bringing cameras, a tripod, wind jackets, extra clothes and water. We needed to be prepared. Our hikes were all okay. And we got a lot of exercise too!

Now on to Norway and Pulpit’s Rock!

We left our hotel early in the morning, before 7 am, travelled by ferry and then drove to the base of our climb.

The start of the climb
The start of the climb

Here is a picture near the beginning to give you some idea of what we were climbing/hiking up.

The climb to the top went well. The preparation and training were well worth the effort. After 3 or 4 hours, we reached the top. 

View from the top
View from the top

This is what we saw. Pretty nice.

After only a few minutes I decided I had to go close to the edge, lie down and look over, straight down to the water. Previous to the trip there was NO WAY I could even imagine being near the edge. I didn’t think I would be able to do it. I was nervous that a gust of wind would hit me, I'd lose my balance and get tossed over!

I also climbed up here so I could get some more pictures.

It took us another 3 or 4 hours to descend a back-route that very few people know about. Fortunately, our guide had hiked this area for many years and knew the trails that would work best for my needs. Hiring a guide was, in the end, one of our best decisions.

The entire trek took us almost 8 hours - to go up and back down. It was the most gruelling hike we could have ever imagined. We were exhausted and very sore for a few days afterwards.

On the top
On the top

But it was worth it. Let me tell you. It was worth it!

I was also extremely happy that I worked up the courage to go to the edge. It was something I never thought I could do, but I did with enthusiasm. That alone has given me a bit of a reputation with my wife as a "Wild Man."

As a final send off to our adventure, here is a picture I shot at the end of the trip when our ship was in a harbour after a storm. Can you see the double rainbow? My wife said she saw a triple.

So here I am looking over the edge for about a minute and a half, while the guide took these pictures. My wife is just behind me. I think she was going to grab my legs, just in case.

I also climbed up here so I could get some more pictures.

It took us another 3 or 4 hours to descend a back-route that very few people know about. Fortunately, our guide had hiked this area for many years and knew the trails that would work best for my needs. Hiring a guide was, in the end, one of our best decisions.

View from the climb
View from the climb

The entire trek took us almost 8 hours - to go up and back down. It was the most gruelling hike we could have ever imagined. We were exhausted and very sore for a few days afterwards.

But it was worth it. Let me tell you. It was worth it!

I was also extremely happy that I worked up the courage to go to the edge. It was something I never thought I could do, but I did with enthusiasm. That alone has given me a bit of a reputation with my wife as a "Wild Man."

As a final send off to our adventure, here is a picture I shot at the end of the trip when our ship was in a harbour after a storm. Can you see the double rainbow? My wife said she saw a triple.

Rainbow after the storm
Rainbow after the storm